Dining Spotlight: Laurel by Top Chef Nicholas Elmi

Laurel Restaurant

The newest celebrity chef hot spot in town is Nicholas Elmi’s Laurel BYOB restaurant, tucked in an intimate space on East Passyunk Avenue. Fresh off his Top Chef Season 11 win back in February, reservations immediately became impossible to make. We rushed to OpenTable to score a seat and had to wait over a month, but we knew it would be worth it. When the day finally came, we were not disappointed in the slightest.

laurel philadelphiaLaurel’s menu is divided into four suggested courses: cold appetizers, warm small plates, main dishes, and dessert. Having waited weeks for this meal, we had to have something from each category. The proportions were perfect, the service was phenomenal, and our experience was above and beyond our (already high) expectations.

Starting with cold appetizers, we strategically chose lighter options to leave room for what was to come. When they came to the table, we were firstly impressed by the presentation. The torn scallops came with sea lettuce and a grapefruit and hot house rhubarb concoction that was poured tableside. The dish was unlike anything we’ve ever tasted. The tuna was accompanied by horseradish, crispy shallots, Asian pear, and a delectable yogurt sauce.

If we had to choose, the warm small plates would have been our favorite part of the meal. With three choices in the category, we were fortunately able to sample one of each. The roasted shrimp broth was incredibly savory with pumpkin seed, mushrooms, and preserved lemon. The charred Spanish mackerel had crushed mustard seed, jalapeno, and ponzu for classic Asian flavors. Last but certainly not least is one of the stars of Laurel, the heavenly fresh ricotta gnocchi. Since Laurel has opened its doors, everyone has been raving about these little garlicky pillows of cheese, and we’re excited to confirm the rumors are all true. Sprinkled with crispy pancetta and sourdough crumbs, this dish is really the best gnocchi in the city.

Our main dishes were no less beautiful or satisfying. When our waitress explained the Berkshire pork was served three ways, we knew we had to try that. Impressed with the seafood so far, we also decided on roasted walu with sunchoke, hazelnut, and apple blossom. Both of these dishes excelled. The pork included slices of loin, tender belly, and a piece of shoulder and cheek with white asparagus, hickory nut pesto, and citrus puree. The walu was simply perfectly cooked.

For dessert, Chef Elmi personally came to ask us how our meal was and brought our chocolate and caramelized honey pudding with him. With the creamy pudding, bright notes of red wine currant sauce and crunchy cocoa nibs, it was a flavorful and textural treat. We couldn’t have asked for a more perfect ending! Needless to say, we can hardly wait to think of an occasion to come back.

For updates and an insider look of the restaurant, follow Laurel on Facebook, Twitter, and Instagram. Prepare for stomach rumblings and drooling.

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